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You`re railing that descent, nailing every line and feeling like a world champ, when suddenly you smash a wheel into a big square-edge rock. Quite literally, you can feel the air go out of the ride. Not much kills the stoke from a great spin quicker than a flat tire. This is why tubeless tires are increasingly popular for all kinds of cycling. These setups use a liquid sealant instead of an inner tube to hold air. As a result, they offer better protection against all kinds of flats and enable you to run lower pressures than tube-type systems, increasing traction and creating a more comfortable ride. In the event you do get a puncture, tubeless tires are also more likely to stay attached to the rim, which is safer. But ask most riders about going tubeless and you`ll encounter a litany of horror stories about setup. Why are some tubeless installs easy and others a multi-hour thrash session punctuated by merchant-marine levels of cursing? In short: manufacturing standards and tolerances. Wheels and tires from different brands vary ever so slightly in actual size, so a tire that fits great on one wheel is an overly tight nightmare on another. The good news is that this is slowly improving. Because manufacturing standards are getting better, with stricter tolerances, it`s now much more likely than even five years ago that you`ll be able to install and seat tubeless tires on the first try with a standard floor pump. Here`s a step-by-step guide. Glossary of Terms Rim Tape: Special, impermeable tape that seals a metal or carbon-fiber rim bed against air loss, especially around the spoke holes. You`ll see people using all manner of cheap DIY approaches (Gorilla Tape is popular), but we recommend using actual tubeless rim tape. It`s not that expensive, and it`s far better suited to the task. Bead Lock: The part of the wheel rim that holds a tubeless tire in place. If you view a tubeless bead lock`s cross section, it has a special shape-a square sidewall with a small bump on the inside of the rim bed. The matching tubeless tire bead is pressed into the bead lock by air pressure, where it seats, or locks, securely. The bump prevents the bead from blowing off under pressure, and it reduces the likelihood that it can come loose if the tire goes flat. UST: The original tubeless tire standard, created in 1999 by Mavic, Hutchinson, and Michelin. Instead of sealant, it used an impermeable layer in the tire casing to hold air. As a result, it was extremely heavy relative to modern systems. Today it`s superseded by tubeless-ready technology. Tubeless Ready: Refers to any tire and/or wheel rim that is manufactured so that it can be installed as tubeless just by adding sealant. For tires, this means that the bead has a tubeless-ready profile, and that the tire casing can be made airtight by adding sealant. For rims, it means that the rim bed is sealed against air loss (either by being solid material or through the addition of airtight rim tape), and that the bead lock has a tubeless-ready cross section. Tubeless Compatible: You`ll sometimes find this designation on rims or wheels that have the proper tubeless bead-lock profile but which need the addition of airtight rim tape to become tubeless ready. What to Buy Tubeless-Compatible or Tubeless-Ready Wheels and Tires You`ll need tubeless-compatible or tubeless-ready wheels to start. This is governed by the rim profile itself (see the glossary, above). Most gravel and mountain-bike wheels these days are compatible; road bikes are not always so. But in any case, check manufacturer specs. A warning: Do not under any circumstances try to make a wheel that is not listed as tubeless compatible into a tubeless system. If you`re lucky, all that will happen is the tire will blow off the rim in your garage and spray sealant everywhere. If you`re not lucky, the tire will hold just long enough for you to go on a ride, and then it will blow off, likely causing a crash. The same goes for tires: the bead on non-tubeless-ready tires will not hold securely in the bead lock and can blow off without warning. Tubeless Rim Strips or Tape Many higher-end wheelsets are tubeless ready right out of the box. For others listed as tubeless compatible, you`ll need to seal the rim bed (namely the spoke holes) with airtight tape. Good brands are Silca, Stan`s NoTubes, and WTB. You`ll need to match the tape width to your rim width. Sealant This special elixir typically features very small solid particles of rubber or latex in a liquid suspension. When you`re riding, the particles slosh around the inside of the tire, where they find and plug small leaks. Good bets are Muc-Off, Orange Seal, and Stan`s. Buy an 8-to-16-ounce bottle. Sealant doesn`t dry out in the bottle over time like it does in tires, and you may want some extra in case the initial installation doesn`t go smoothly. Some bottles of sealant come with a measuring cup; if yours doesn`t, you`ll need a cup that has measurement markings in ounces. Valve Stems Tubeless tires use special valve stems that create an airtight seal on the inside of the rim bed to prevent air loss. The rubber grommet that forms the seal sometimes has to be matched to the profile of your wheel`s rim bed (so-called universal valves claim to work with almost any system). The best valves have removable cores. Industry Nine, Muc-Off, and Stan`s make good universal valves with removable cores. Tubeless-Ready Tires The sealant`s job is to plug holes, but it won`t seal a non-tubeless tire. More important: non-tubeless tires don`t have the specially shaped bead to lock to the rim. We`ll steer clear of recommendations here. Tires are personal and, for gravel and mountain-bike riding especially, the best choices are highly geography- and conditions-specific. Ask around for what others in your area use and trust. Tools You`ll need a floor pump, sturdy plastic tire levers, a valve-core remover (a very small and inexpensive wrench), a clean rag, a small paintbrush, some rubbing alcohol, and an old cup for soapy water. Optional: Sealant-Injector System These are big syringe-like devices that install the sealant directly through the valve stem. They`re fairly affordable ($10 to $30) and long-lasting. They`re also easy to use and much less likely to spill than the simple plastic measuring cup that comes with most bottles of sealant. Some have a needlelike attachment that can also be used to pull sealant back out of tires-useful if you`re swapping tires or want to store a bike for winter without letting the sealant congeal. Stan`s makes a basic system, but I prefer the KOM or Mil-Kit versions (note: Mil-Kit`s system is more expensive but comes with universal valve stems). Optional: Tubeless Inflation System These are basically reusable air chambers that you pressurize with a floor pump, then place over the valve stem and use to inflate the tire quickly. They`re helpful because seating tubeless tire beads to the rim often requires a high volume of air delivered fast, and floor pumps can struggle to do that. Brands include Airshot, Mil-Kit, and Specialized. But these items are designed for one task only, which may not justify the price ($50 to $100) if you use them rarely. If you`re only installing tubeless tires on rare occasions, you can also use a conventional CO2 inflator system to seat beads. Many people use standard air compressors of the sort you need for home-improvement projects.

Road bikes are a good choice for cyclists who want a bike that features a lighter frame. Lighter frames allow the cyclist to travel farther, without zapping the cyclist`s energy. A lighter frame can also equal increased speed and improved maneuverability. But there are plenty of times when a lightweight bike can work against you. These lighter frames are nowhere near as durable as the daily commuter needs them to be. In fact, one crash can result in hundreds of dollars in repairs. Add the fact that these bikes usually can`t be ridden in wet weather conditions is a huge drawback for most cyclists. You`ll find that a road bike or any bike with a lighter frame cannot be used year round. The hybrid has a heavier frame compared to a road bike. However, the frames are not as heavy as standard mountain bike frames, which is a plus. The hybrid`s heavier frame definitely adds to the bike`s sturdiness, making it more difficult to damage, compared to the road bike. Road bikes are designed for speed, they`re not made to withstand shock or impacts because they`re designed to be ridden on smooth, flat surfaces. Obviously, if you have a major fall on a road bike you will most likely severely damage it, but that`s not the case with the hybrid. The hybrid bike rider doesn`t need the type of speed the road bike can offer. Instead, these bikes are utilized for their ability to handle flat, smooth, steep, and moderately rough terrain. The hybrid`s heavier frame ensures a longer lifespan compared to a lightweight frame that tends to accrue wear and tear damage rather quickly. Commuting, Touring, and More If a mountain bike is designed for off-roading and a road bike is designed for racing, what is exactly is the hybrid designed for? There answer is that the hybrid is well suited for recreational use, commuting, and touring. If you live in a town or city and love riding your bike to other local locations then the hybrid will be a perfect fit. But the hybrid isn`t limited to city streets or sidewalks. These bikes can also be ridden on bike paths, trails, and dirt and gravel paths. The weight of the frame, combined with the 700c tires allow cyclists to take their bike out any time of the year. Hybrids work well for people who need a bike that can handle regular use, one that doesn`t need to be tuned regularly, and a bike that can be used in wet weather conditions. The bike`s tires are designed to easily grip the pavement, even when it`s raining.

Trunk Mount Racks Typically the most inexpensive of the bike rack systems ($50–$200), trunk-mounted racks are designed to rest on the back of a car trunk while straps secure it in place. Arms and cradles support the bike to keep it securely in place. Pros: These racks are great for the recreational cyclist, and they can be used on multiple vehicles since fit is adjustable. Trunk-mounted racks are light, highly portable and easy to store when not in use. With some practice, they are easy to mount and take off. Cons: Trunk racks are often limited in their load capacity (two to three bikes is typically the max), and once mounted, they interfere with trunk access. Additionally, the effectiveness of the rack relies on the straps being secured tightly. If done poorly, the bikes might shift or sway while driving. Lastly, the design of trunk racks can make it difficult to lock bikes to your vehicle, if security is a concern. Hitch Mount Racks Although more expensive than trunk-mounted racks ($150 to more than $500), hitch racks are a great option for frequent users-especially for those needing to carry more than three bikes. Hitch racks are typically designed to haul two to five bikes. These racks are generally either platform style or hanging cradle style, both of which have their advantages and disadvantages. Hanging Cradle Style – The style where your bikes hang from the rack The advantage to this style is that they are typically less expensive than the platform style, lighter weight, and will usually offer more ground clearance. On the downside, the bikes aren`t held as securely in place and will often sway and make contact with the other bikes while in transit. Minor abrasions to the bike paint can result. Platform Style ­– The style where the bikes sit on a platform. The advantage to this style is that it`s the easiest and most secure way to load your bikes and keep them in place, preventing any abrasions or damage to the bikes. The disadvantages are that these racks will typically cost more and can be a bit heavy and awkward to carry and store when not in use. When purchasing a hitch-mounted rack is be sure to check the tongue load capacity of your vehicle`s hitch (typically 10 percent of the towing capacity). Depending on the hitch class, too much weight could cause a hitch to bend or to break if not loaded properly. Be sure to check your owner`s manual or hitch (if installed aftermarket) to determine the load capacity. Pros: Hitch racks are simple to install, and they are incredibly sturdy when compared to trunk-mounted racks. They are great for frequent users, but they are easily removed should you decide you don`t need the rack for any period of time. Many hitch racks come with locks or can be easily secured to a hitch with a cable lock, so security is not an issue. Cons: Hitch racks, especially platform models with features that allow the rack to swing or drop out of the way of the rear hatch/door of the vehicle, can be expensive. However, more inexpensive models without these features will block entry to trunks or rear doors. Models designed to carry four or five bikes can be heavy, and you might experience a little sway when fully loaded.

Assuming an adult weights 60–80kg (130–180lb), the frame of a bicycle has to be fairly tough if it's not going to snap or buckle the moment the rider climbs on board. Ordinary bicycles have frames made from strong, inexpensive, tubular steel (literally, hollow steel tubes containing nothing but air) or lighter alloys based on steel or aluminum. Racing bicycles are more likely to be made from carbon-fiber composites, which are more expensive but stronger, lighter, and rustproof. You might think that a bike frame made out of aluminum tubing would be much weaker than one made from steel-but only if the tubes are similar in dimensions. In practice, every bike needs to be strong enough to support the rider's weight and the loads it's likely to experience during different kinds of handling. So an aluminum bike would use tubing with a larger diameter and/or thicker walls than a bike made from steel tubing. The frame doesn't simply support you: its triangular shape (often two triangles joined together to make a diamond) is carefully designed to distribute your weight. Although the saddle is positioned much nearer to the back wheel, you lean forward to hold the handlebars. The angled bars in the frame are designed to share your weight more or less evenly between the front and back wheels. If you think about it, that's really important. If all your weight acted over the back wheel, and you tried to pedal uphill, you'd tip backwards; similarly, if there were too much weight on the front wheel, you'd go head over heels every time you went downhill! Frames aren't designed to be 100 percent rigid: that would make for a much less comfortable ride. Virtually all bike frames flex and bend a little so they absorb some of the shocks of riding, though other factors (like the saddle and tires) have much more effect on ride comfort. It's also worth remembering that the human body is itself a remarkably efficient suspension system; riding a mountain bike along a rough trail, you'll very quickly become aware of how your arms can work as shock absorbers! Indeed, it can be quite instructive to view the body as an extension (or complement) of the bike's basic frame, balanced on top of it.

We've described a bicycle as a machine and, in scientific terms, that's exactly what it is: a device that can magnify force (making it easier to go uphill) or speed. It's also a machine in the sense that it converts energy from one form (whatever you had to eat) into another (the kinetic energy your body and bicycle have as they speed along). Now you've probably heard of a law of physics called the conservation of energy, which says that you can't create energy out of thin air or make it vanish without trace: all you can do is convert it from one from to another. So where does the energy you use in cycling actually go? It scientific terms, we say it goes into "doing work"- but what does that mean in practice? Cycling can sometimes feel like hard work, especially if you're going uphill. In the science of cycling, "hard work" means that you sometimes have to use quite a lot of force to pedal any distance. If you're going uphill, you need to work against the force of gravity. If you're going fast, you're working against the force of air resistance (drag) pushing against your body. Sometimes there are bumps in the road you have to ride over; that takes more force and uses energy too (bumps reduce your kinetic energy by reducing your speed). But whether you're going uphill or downhill, fast or slow, on a smooth road or a bumpy one, there's another kind of work you always have to do simply to make your wheels go around. When a wheel rests on the ground, supporting a load such as a rider on a bike, the tire wrapped around it is squashed up in some places and bulging out in others. As you cycle along, different parts of the tire squash and bulge in turn and the rubber they're made from is pulled and pushed in all directions. Repeatedly squashing a tire in this way is a bit like kneading bread: it takes energy-and that energy is what we know as rolling resistance. The more load you put on the tire (the heavier you are or the more you're carrying), the higher the rolling resistance. For a racing bike traveling fast, about 80 percent of the work the cyclist does will go in overcoming air resistance, while the remainder will be used to battle rolling resistance; for a mountain biker going much more slowly over rough terrain, 80 percent of their energy goes in rolling resistance and only 20 percent is lost to drag. How much energy are we actually talking about here? In the Tour de France, according to a fascinating analysis by Training Peaks, top riders average about 300–400 watts of power, which is as much as 3–4 old-fashioned 100-watt lamps or about 15 percent of the power you'd need to drive an electric kettle. For comparison, you can generate about 10 watts with a hand-cranked electricity generator, though you can't use one of those for very long without getting tired. What does this tell us? It's much easier to generate large amounts of power for long periods of time by using your big leg muscles than by using your hands and arms. That's why bikes are so clever: they make good use of the most powerful muscles in our body.

Does your chain skip between gears when you pedal, phantom shift, shift twice instead of once, or refuse to shift when you need it to? Here's how to fix it. Does your chain skip between gears when you pedal, phantom shift, shift twice instead of once, or refuse to shift when you need it to? Abby Hippley, mechanic, bike builder and former demo driver for Santa Cruz Bikes says, Your chain-more accurately the cables that connect your shifters to your derailleurs to move the chain from cog to cog-need their tension adjusted-a fix you can most likely make without interrupting your ride." Most of the time, a skipping chain is caused by cable stretch. In the first half dozen rides on a new bike your shift cables stretch the most. They can also stretch over time as you ride. Hippley explains, It takes cable tension to open a derailleur, which shifts your chain between gears. To solve cable stretch, you have to add tension to your cables." To fix a skip in the rear derailleur, shift your chain into the smallest ring on your rear cassette (the hardest gear) and the middle or larger ring on your front derailleur. Press your shifter once. If the chain doesn't move up a gear, you need to add tension. Twist your right barrel adjuster, which will be on your brake laterally opposite from your brake lever-the brake cable passes through it as it enters your shifter. Unscrew the adjuster by turning it away from you half a turn. Shift down into the smallest ring in the rear cassette again, and press your shifter again to see if the bike shifts properly. If the bike still does not shift, repeat the entire process. When the first cog shifts correctly, continue to move through the gears in your cassette, fine tuning with the barrel adjuster as you go. The same technique works for the front derailleur, which also has a barrel adjuster. However, the front derailleur barrel adjuster tensions in the opposite direction. Screw the adjuster towards you to add tension. If barrel adjusting doesn't resolve your shifting issues, you may need a mechanic. Cables may have been incorrectly tensioned to start, and they may need to be adjusted where they enter the derailleur. Or, if you've crashed, your derailleur or derailleur hanger may be bent.

Every cyclist has their own unique needs, whether it`s a bike that can handle long daily commutes or a bike that can go the distance. If you`re a cyclist who needs a bike that`s more versatile than the standard cruiser, road bike, or mountain bike, then a hybrid bike can be an excellent choice. But are hybrid bikes worth it? These bikes have a lot of hype surrounding them, mainly because they`re said to offer the best features and characteristics of both the road and mountain bike, but how versatile are these bikes really? Can hybrids offer the type of speed, power, and solid performance that many road bikes and mountain bikes are known for, or is it really just hype? Just how durable is the hybrid? Are hybrids worth it? For the avid cyclist in need of a bike that can handle a variety of terrain types and one that can be utilized as a daily commuter, yes. Hands down, the hybrid is one of the most versatile bikes on the market. Making it a better choice over the mountain bike, cruiser, and road bike, if you need a bike you can ride in inclement weather, and over a variety of terrain types. The fact that these bikes feature a variety of frame designs also lends to their appeal. There are many options of hybrid styles to choose from these days. These slight variations in design are what make the hybrid so functional and versatile. If you need a hybrid that performs more like a road bike, there are lightweight frames available. Whereas the cyclist in need of a hybrid that can perform like a mountain bike can choose a hybrid with front suspension, larger tires, and a heavier frame. With the hybrid, the choices really are endless. Are hybrid bikes worth it? They are. Hybrids may not be the ideal choice if you need a bike specifically for off-roading or racing, but if you need a bike that can handle more terrain types, daily use, uphill riding, and light off-road riding, then you won`t find a better style of bike that fits the bill. The hybrid`s versatility allows riders to take their bikes over a variety of terrain types, unlike other styles of bikes, such as cruiser bikes, road, or mountain bikes. The hybrid cyclist can essentially go wherever they want to go, regardless of weather conditions or terrain type, which is what makes these bikes so incredibly popular and why they remain in high demand. Now that you know that the hybrid can travel where other bikes cannot, keep reading to learn more about the other benefits the hybrid has to offer and how this type of bike can totally change how you ride. The All-Purpose Bike The hybrid combines many of the popular features you`ll find on other types of bikes in order to create a bike that`s efficient, comfortable, and easier to ride, meaning it`s capable of both light off-road riding and riding on cultivated terrain. These bikes are designed for many different types of terrain, which is why the hybrid`s tires are thicker than what you`ll find on a road bike and thinner than the tires commonly used on a mountain bike. It`s a bike that features a more upright riding position, which is a huge plus over bikes that force the cyclist to take a more aggressive riding stance, leaning over the handlebars. The hybrid bike goes by many names, so it`s easy to get them confused with other styles. Many cyclists refer to the hybrid as the all-purpose bike, a name that fits the bike`s versatility and design. During the design process, the hybrid took many elements of other popular styles of bikes to create a bike that can work for non-sealed and sealed roads. They often have a larger gear range, better suspension, and bigger tires compared to road bikes, comfort bikes, and cruiser bikes. But while their tires feature a more pronounced tread than cruiser and road bikes, the tires and suspension really can`t compare to what you`ll find on a mountain bike. As one of the most versatile bikes on the market, the hybrid can go where other types of bikes cannot, but it`s not quite as versatile as some manufacturers claim. It does have its limitations. The addition of front suspension does allow the hybrid to go where some bikes can`t, but in reality, the hybrid is best suited for light off-road riding. Before you buy a hybrid bike for mountain bike riding, it`s important that you know that these bikes cannot perform exactly like a traditional mountain bike, despite how much some manufacturers push these bikes as part mountain bike, part road bike. However, with some upgrades, it is possible to take a hybrid for some off-road riding. But this can include upgrading the suspension fork and tires. In addition to other minor improvements.

Cycling while pregnant is a safe way to exercise and backed by the NHS. First or second trimester? Twins? Get tips and advice here. Cycling while pregnant? Or pregnant and want to cycle? Confused by all of the tips and advice out there, then look no further! It`s a fact that exercising while you're pregnant keeps you fit and prepared for childbirth. If you want to exercise on your bicycle while pregnant, do it. We don't want to get into the controversy around being a pregnant cyclist, we want to focus on supporting you if you wish to do so. One of the first things active women do when they find out they're pregnant is look for information on exercise during pregnancy. Running, cycling, swimming, whatever their chosen sport, they want to know if it's safe to keep doing it. The NHS recommend exercising while pregnant but to be careful you don't risk a fall. Reader's Story: Cycling While Pregnant Unfortunately, as Susie Mitchell discussed last week, the information on cycling while pregnant is jumbled at best. There's no definitive answer. Although there's no concrete proof that high-intensity exercise harms your baby, cutting down the intensity of your training makes sense. Your body is already working extremely hard creating and growing your baby. Throwing a high-intensity workout on top of that is a shortcut to exhaustion but that doesn't mean you can't ride a bicycle while pregnant. If you have chosen to continue cycling through your pregnancy, there are a few things you will need to be aware of. We've prepared a quick round-up of how pregnancy and your changing body will affect your cycling, and how you can take the best possible care of yourself throughout. Cycling while pregnant tips 1. Talk to your doctor at your first appointment, letting them know exactly how much cycling you`re doing now and how much you`d like to continue to do through your pregnancy. If there is any medical reason for you to stop exercising, take heed. It's only nine months, after all. 2. Listen to your body. You are growing an entire human being inside of you – that's seriously hard work. If your body's saying it's time to slow down or stop, listen to it. 3. During the first trimester all the hard work is going on inside of your body as you create the placenta, and this is exceptionally tiring for your body. Be aware you will be far more tired than usual and plan accordingly. Try and avoid long, arduous journeys or bicycle training sessions in the evenings – chances are you`ll feel more energetic in the morning. You can carry on cycling in the second trimester and third trimester but get advice from your Doctor and keep safe. 4. You've probably heard that exercise can help with morning sickness. I'm sure it can in some cases, but in my case I had to step off the gas for the first 12 weeks as getting out of breath made me gag. Regardless of what 'the books say', what friends swear by and even what doctors advise, if it's making you feel worse, not better, then it's time to slow down. 5. As your bump grows in the second trimester, you may find it more comfortable to raise the handlebars on your bicycle so you are sitting in a more upright position. 6. In some cases your balance can be affected by your growing bump. I have to say I've not noticed this in one-and-a-half very impressively sized pregnancies, but we are all different. If your balance starts to go a bit 'off' then stay off the bike. A tumble won`t do you or your unborn baby any good. 7. It's normal and healthy to gain weight during your pregnancy, but the extra load might make you a bit saddle-sore. Check out our guide to the best womens cycling shorts and invest in a bit of extra padding whilst you're carrying the extra weight. 8. As your uterus grows to accommodate your growing baby, your internal organs will become a lot more cramped – there's only so much room in there! You may find the compression leaves you short of breath – this doesn't mean you can't cycle while pregnant at all, but the golden rule remains, listen to your body. 9. Common side effects of pregnancy and your changing body include backache, rib and side pain, and hip pain. If you are suffering from any of these and it`s uncomfortable on the bike, give the cycling a rest. Pregnancy yoga or Pilates may help with aches and pains or try pregnancy massage. 10. If it's getting too much like hard work and you`re not enjoying it, then stop. You don't have to soldier on if you're struggling and just because your friend cycled herself to hospital to give birth, doesn't mean your body 'should be able to cope' with cycling. Every pregnancy is different. Bonus Tip: You can buy maternity clothing to help you cycle while pregnant. Lots of brands produce cycling clothing for pregnant women, including jerseys, shorts, bibs and more. Follow Cathy on Twitter and check out her new book.

A vibrant bike culture is growing across North America, but its scope is still miniscule when compared to Europe. In Denmark and Holland cycling is the norm for both general transportation and commuting to work or school. In this blog post, we`ll look at trends on both sides of the Atlantic, and how to support the cycling communities of the future. CYCLING IN NORTH AMERICA The number of cyclists in the United States and Canada has increased steadily for the past two decades. According to a study published in 2011-which looked at data from national surveys conducted by the U.S. Department of Transportation-North America is in the midst of a "cycling renaissance". What does this look like? In the United States and Canada: 1. The number of bike trips taken each year tripled between 1977 and 2009 2. The number of people biking to work doubled between 2000 and 2009-accounting for 0.6 percent, or about 766,000 Americans, of the working population 3. In 2012, 865,000 American workers cycled to work (an increase of 11 percent from 2009) These numbers represent national averages, but are much higher in cities that invest significantly in cycling infrastructure. Portland, often recognized as America`s greatest biking city, increased the number of bike trips per year by almost six-fold between 1990 and 2009, accounting for almost 6 percent of overall transportation in the city. For Portland`s work-specific commutes, bike-use peaked at 18 percent in 2008. Generally, biking is more popular in western North America-especially in dense urban areas, gentrified neighborhoods and university/college locales-than in the east. However, eastern cultural hubs such as Chicago, Minneapolis and New York City have also seen huge growth in cycling populations, suggesting weather and climate are not the only factors influencing bike use. It`s worth noting that income can have an impact on why people cycle. More affluent populations are more likely to cycle for leisure, while low-income populations are more likely to cycle for utilitarian purposes-i.e. commuting to work or school. DENMARK AND THE NETHERLANDS: PROMISED LANDS FOR CYCLISTS While Americans can take pride in their growing bike culture, cycling has been ubiquitous in European communities for decades. In Denmark, 16 percent of all trips-and 25 percent of trips less than 3 miles-are made by bike. As in North America, urban areas see more cycling than rural-even then, it`s estimated that half of Copenhagen residents bike to work or school. Bike ownership is another big indicator of ubiquitous bicycling culture: 90 percent of Denmark`s population own a bike while only 56 percent own a car. The situation is similar in the Netherlands. In Amsterdam, there are 800,000 bikes and only 263,000 cars. With a population of 779,808, that amounts to more bikes than people! Ridership is also high, with about 63 percent of Dutch people riding their bikes daily, and making up about 48 percent of all city traffic (compared to only 22 percent for vehicles). So why is cycling more common in these countries? It turns out there are a few distinctions to consider.

Are hybrid bikes worth it? They are. Hybrids may not be the ideal choice if you need a bike specifically for off-roading or racing, but if you need a bike that can handle more terrain types, daily use, uphill riding, and light off-road riding, then you won`t find a better style of bike that fits the bill. The hybrid's versatility allows riders to take their bikes over a variety of terrain types, unlike other styles of bikes, such as cruiser bikes, road, or mountain bikes. The hybrid cyclist can essentially go wherever they want to go, regardless of weather conditions or terrain type, which is what makes these bikes so incredibly popular and why they remain in high demand. Now that you know that the hybrid can travel where other bikes cannot, keep reading to learn more about the other benefits the hybrid has to offer and how this type of bike can totally change how you ride. The hybrid combines many of the popular features you'll find on other types of bikes in order to create a bike that's efficient, comfortable, and easier to ride, meaning it's capable of both light off-road riding and riding on cultivated terrain. These bikes are designed for many different types of terrain, which is why the hybrid's tires are thicker than what you'll find on a road bike and thinner than the tires commonly used on a mountain bike. It's a bike that features a more upright riding position, which is a huge plus over bikes that force the cyclist to take a more aggressive riding stance, leaning over the handlebars. The hybrid bike goes by many names, so it's easy to get them confused with other styles. Many cyclists refer to the hybrid as the all-purpose bike, a name that fits the bike's versatility and design. The All-Purpose Bike During the design process, the hybrid took many elements of other popular styles of bikes to create a bike that can work for non-sealed and sealed roads. They often have a larger gear range, better suspension, and bigger tires compared to road bikes, comfort bikes, and cruiser bikes. But while their tires feature a more pronounced tread than cruiser and road bikes, the tires and suspension really can't compare to what you'll find on a mountain bike. As one of the most versatile bikes on the market, the hybrid can go where other types of bikes cannot, but it's not quite as versatile as some manufacturers claim. It does have its limitations. The addition of front suspension does allow the hybrid to go where some bikes can't, but in reality, the hybrid is best suited for light off-road riding. Before you buy a hybrid bike for mountain bike riding, it's important that you know that these bikes cannot perform exactly like a traditional mountain bike, despite how much some manufacturers push these bikes as part mountain bike, part road bike. However, with some upgrades, it is possible to take a hybrid for some off-road riding. But this can include upgrading the suspension fork and tires. In addition to other minor improvements.

While it might seem like a simple rubber hoop, bringing a bike tire into the real world involves high-tech machinery, the latest manufacturing techniques, and labor-intensive craftsmanship. Here, we'll walk you through the process step-by-step. Step 1: Selecting Rubber Compound Ingredients What bicycle tires are made of largely depends on which purposes they`ll be used for. Step 2: Mixing & Extruding These ingredients meet inside industrial machinery known as an internal mixer. (The Maxxis website references a specific model, known as a Banbury mixer.) The Mixing Process Here, bales of rubber are kneaded inside a large chamber by two rotors, which move at variable rotations per minute. They're simultaneously heated to temperatures as high as 338°F (170°C), while other ingredients are added as needed to achieve desired traits like elasticity, durability, surface adhesion, dampening, and so forth. Depending on the size of the mixer, manufacturers can combine between 40 kg and 400+ kg of rubber and other ingredients per session, and in less than five minutes. They draw multiple samples during this relatively short process to ensure the desired properties are present. The Extrusion Process Once mixing is complete, doughy rubber exits the machine through a discharge hatch at the bottom and is sheeted out like a pastry into a thick, continuous layer by powerful rollers. At this point, Maxxis tells us it`s referred to as a 'slap'. Step 3: Tread & Sidewall Formation Slap slated for sidewalls is covered with plastic sheeting and rolled further. Tread slap (the part that comes into direct contact with the ground) is cut into long, narrow strips. These strips are then fed into an extruder and heated again. Once the rubber becomes doughy, a revolving screw applies shear force and sends it through a die, forming a profile that`s thicker in the center and thinner on the sides. Together, this helps improve resistance to wear. To cool and set its shape, tread rubber is subsequently submerged in water. It`s also dipped in an anti-tack compound like metallic stearate or stearic acid, powdered mica, talc, or different water-based formulas, to prevent sticking. Then, it`s wound onto spools with a fabric separator between each layer to further prevent unwanted adhesion. Sidewall slap is also wound around a spool, separated by fabric and then dried, stacked in cases called 'books', and stored for later use. If needed, it's immediately transferred to the next step in the process. Step 4: Carcass Creation As we explain in How Bike Tires Work, the carcass (otherwise known as the casing) is perhaps the most critical section of a bike tire, since it acts as the underlying framework and determines its shape. It also defines how the tire conforms to surface irregularities, along with its rolling resistance. Step 5: "Green" Tires The extruded rubber for the tire's sidewalls is now glued into place, and the tread is applied to the center. With all of the layers set, the bike tire is removed from the building machine. At this point, it's known as a "green" tire. From here, a specialist loads the tire into a branding station, where hot metal plates quickly bond labels to its sidewalls. Step 6: Quality and Safety Testing Finally, the tire is removed from the mold to cool. Eventually, it's sent to a warehouse for distribution. After cooling, each tire is inspected for flaws (e.g., bubbles, voids, etc.), whether by a specially trained employee or by bombarding it with x-rays and visualizing the results on a screen. In most instances, one tire from each batch also undergoes in-depth quality control testing. This might involve one or more of the following: Simulating road wear by spinning it against a metal wheel until it goes bald (usually after thousands of miles). Sensors simultaneously report if the tire remains balanced and true. A different wheel that features a large bump to simulate hitting a curb several thousand times in a row. Applying a great deal of pressure onto one or more sharp metal studs, which checks a tire`s puncture resistance. Pressurizing the tire until it pops off of the rim. To pass, some manufacturers require that their tires survive at least 8 lbs of pressure per square inch before moving to the distribution phase.

You're gliding down a country lane enjoying the view, peace and solitude when you pull on the brakes and a loud squealing sound shatters the tranquillity. We've all been there – squeaky brakes are near the top of any cyclist's list of annoying bike noises. But it's not just the squeal that's a problem – noisy brakes can also mean decreased braking performance. What causes squeaky brakes? Squealing brakes can occur for a number of reasons. Often, contamination can give rise to a nasty noise when you hit the anchors – oil or grease on the wheel rim, brake pad or rotor or a misalignment between the braking surfaces can cause a squeal, or perhaps you have new brake pads which may need to bed in. Also, poorly set-up brakes can cause vibration and the tell-tale screech. There are a number of steps you can take to reduce the likelihood of noisy brakes and we'll run through these below for both rim and disc brakes. Rim brakes vs Disc brakes: what's the difference? Rim brakes As contamination is a leading cause of squeaky brakes, first check that the rims are oil free and that there's no build-up of dirt – if so scrub them thoroughly with degreaser. Then check the brake blocks themselves are clean and free of specks of dirt or grit. Also ensure that the brake blocks are wearing evenly and are not worn out, if they're not wearing down evenly this could be a sign that the brakes are not set up properly. After this cleaning regime, check that all bolts securing the caliper to the frame and the brake blocks to the caliper are securely tightened – loose bolts can cause brake noise. Common problems with rim brakes Still getting a squeal after all that cleaning and tightening? Then it could be that your brakes are not set up properly. Check this by applying the brake and looking at how the rim and block surfaces come together – loosen the mounting bolts and reposition the blocks to ensure an accurate connection. In addition to the above reasons, a small amount of play in the wheel bearings can also contribute to noisy brakes. Disc brakes As with rim brakes, the most common cause of squeaky disc brakes is contamination. This may occur when spray lubricants have been used on a bicycle with disc brakes and some of it gets on the rotors or pads – great care is needed if you do use such products. Ensuring your rims or rotors are kept clean by using an oil-free degreaser will help reduce the incidence of brake squeal, as will sanding down the pads. You can buy specific disc brake cleaners to keep them clean and contaminant-free and often this will do the trick, but if the disc pads themselves have become contaminated, then you will have to remove them completely from the bike in order to sandpaper them down. If this doesn't work then you may have to buy new pads. What's the best way to clean the disc brakes on your bike? / Image: Flynn Tesoriero, Unsplash. How do you set-up disc brakes on a bike? Setting up disc brakes is different from rim brakes and poorly set-up disc pads can seriously hamper performance. The best way to bed pads in is to ride along at a good speed and pull firmly on the brakes – do this several times to ensure the discs are well-bedded in. If none of the above works it could be that the caliper is not perfectly aligned with the rotor. Disc rotors can bend easily but can be straightened with an adjustable spanner and you can adjust the positioning of the caliper and disc rotor by eye. The steps described above should rid you of that pesky noise but if all else fails, take your bike into your friendly local bike shop and ask them to cure the squeal.

Serious cyclists (and some who aren't so serious) obsess over every ounce on their bike. Yes, a lighter bike can save you some energy. And a rule of thumb states that mass on the wheel is like twice the mass on the frame. But why? Let's look at some possible effects of extra mass on a bike. Air Resistance To ride at a constant velocity, the net force must be zero. Of course there is the gravitational force pulling down and the road pushing up. But there also is air drag force pushing against the direction of motion. You feel this same when you stick your hand out of a car window. The faster you go, the greater the force. What happens to air drag force if I add mass to my bike? If the added mass doesn't change the shape or cross sectional area of the bike, the force remains the same. Air drag force doesn't depend upon the mass of the object. But what if the extra mass pushes down on the tires, causing the tires to stick out more and cause more air resistance? OK, that's technically possible-but it wouldn't matter if the mass was on the bike frame or the wheel. Actually, in terms of air drag, extra mass can help. Suppose you have two bikes that look the same but have different masses. If they are traveling the same speed, they will have the same air resistance force on them. However, this force will produce a greater change in speed on the bike with less mass. Don't forget that a net force is equal to the produce of mass and acceleration. Same force but different masses means different accelerations. Rolling Friction If you get a bike going and coast, the bike slows and then stops. This would occur even without air resistance. As a wheel rests, the part of the tire touching the ground compresses and deforms. When the wheel turns, the section of tire being compressed changes. The constant compression and relaxation requires energy. This is called rolling friction. What if you put a mass on the frame? The tire is compressed further, resulting in greater rolling friction. How about if you put the mass on the tire, not the frame? The same thing happens, but you could argue that the effect isn't as great. If the mass is evenly distributed around the circumference of the wheel, then a part of this mass will be at the contact point and not really push down on the bike. This might be true, but the effect would be tiny. Internal Friction When you pedal, you're working against friction in the wheel bearings, friction in the bottom bracket, friction in the chain and through the cogs and chainrings. This reduces your efficiency. But what about adding mass? More mass on a bike can increase the friction in the bearings-but again, this won't matter where the mass is located.

We all know that tyres don`t last for ever but exactly when do they need replacing? Here`s how to tell when the time has come for a new pair. There are essentially five parts to a clincher tyre (standard tyres that use inner tubes, held in place by a bead that hooks to the wheel rim, as opposed to tubulars that are bonded to the wheel): Casing The supple body of the tyre, made of nylon (usually) in various numbers of threads per inch (TPI), that`s covered in rubber. Protection layer Manufacturers sometimes use various different types of material underneath the tread to provide resistance against punctures. Tread The compound that comes into contact with the ground. Bead The bit around the edge that secures the tyre to the wheel rim. These are made from wire or foldable Kevlar. Anti-chafing strip The reinforcement that protects the bead. Impacts Most road bike tyres will go through their lives without experiencing too much in the way of trauma, but you might hit a pothole, a big stone, or some other obstacle that causes damage to the structure, or something might ping up from the road surface. Check your tyres carefully if anything like this happens. Essex Potholes 3 [A casing breach of any size in the sidewall/ 2mm under the tread would usually render a tyre disabled and ready for replacement," says Shelley Childs of Cambrian Tyres, the company that distributes Continental bike tyres in the UK. Pothole [If you hit a pothole and feel the wheel rim has made contact with the road surface, then there is a chance that the tyre sidewall (casing) has been breached, even if there is no air loss of the inner tube. Stop and check. [Also, if you ride over something that causes an obvious bump or jerk to the handling of the bike, your tyre may have been damaged, even if you don`t suffer a puncture. Again, stop and check just to be safe. [If you do see a tear anywhere on the exposed surface of the tyre (tread or sidewall), inspect it thoroughly and try to see if the inner tube is visible. If so, the tyre is unsafe. If not, then the casing should still be intact and you can ride on, but get the tyre checked by your local dealer just to be sure." Check the wheel too. [If the tyre/tube survives a pothole smash then it`s essential that after you`ve checked the tyres you should also check your rims to make sure that their structure hasn't been compromised," says Schwalbe's Dave Taylor. [A dented rim or displaced spoke can cause unwanted friction for tyre and tube which could lead to a puncture on a later ride."

When you think of traditional women`s bikes, you may think of pink two-wheelers that are anything but sporty. But women aren`t limited to girly bikes. Manufacturers make women`s bikes in all styles and sizes. Women can also ride men's bikes. The decision should be based on fit and comfort. Women-Specific Bikes Bikes made just for women have frames that are shorter than men`s bikes, with a shorter reach to the handlebars and brakes. The handlebars, brakes and stem are all smaller, too, since women generally are not as tall as men. Women`s bike frames are usually lighter than men`s, and the top tube is lower and shorter. Some companies specialize in women`s designs. Women can also have bikes custom-made to fit their proportions. Men's Bikes Men`s bike frames are large and heavy. This means fitting them may be challenging for women who are 5 feet 5 inches or shorter. Look for a clearance of 1 to 2 inches over the top tube when you`re straddling the bike. The real challenge for women, however, is length of the top tube. It`s longer on men`s bikes, so make sure you can manage the reach to the handlebars. You won`t want to be stretched out too far, even if you can straddle the bike easily. Saddles Another concern for women on men`s bikes is the saddle. Traditional saddles for women are wide and comfortable. If you can`t find a comfy seat on a men`s bike, it`s just a matter of switching the saddle. Look for saddles made with gel pads for extra cushioning, high-tech covers that wick away moisture, and titanium rails. Most important is the design. Saddles come in shapes to relieve pressure to the perineum, the area between your sit bones. These saddles often have large grooves down the middle or they are noseless. Some even come in two separate seats, one for each sit bone. Other Adjustments While the top tube is the biggest concern for women considering men`s bikes, there are other means of shortening the reach to the handlebars. You can improve the fit by adjusting the seat post and the stem length. Some seat posts have clamps that set the saddle too far back. These are usually posts with clamps in the back. Once the saddle is moved forward, consider getting a shorter stem length. Tall women will want stem lengths of at least 90 mm. Smaller women may need shorter stems, which can run as short as 30 mm.

With the hybrid, the choices really are endless. Are hybrid bikes worth it? They are. Hybrids may not be the ideal choice if you need a bike specifically for off-roading or racing, but if you need a bike that can handle more terrain types, daily use, uphill riding, and light off-road riding, then you won`t find a better style of bike that fits the bill. The hybrid`s versatility allows riders to take their bikes over a variety of terrain types, unlike other styles of bikes, such as cruiser bikes, road, or mountain bikes. The hybrid cyclist can essentially go wherever they want to go, regardless of weather conditions or terrain type, which is what makes these bikes so incredibly popular and why they remain in high demand. Now that you know that the hybrid can travel where other bikes cannot, keep reading to learn more about the other benefits the hybrid has to offer and how this type of bike can totally change how you ride. The All-Purpose Bike The hybrid combines many of the popular features you`ll find on other types of bikes in order to create a bike that`s efficient, comfortable, and easier to ride, meaning it`s capable of both light off-road riding and riding on cultivated terrain. These bikes are designed for many different types of terrain, which is why the hybrid`s tires are thicker than what you`ll find on a road bike and thinner than the tires commonly used on a mountain bike. It`s a bike that features a more upright riding position, which is a huge plus over bikes that force the cyclist to take a more aggressive riding stance, leaning over the handlebars. The hybrid bike goes by many names, so it`s easy to get them confused with other styles. Many cyclists refer to the hybrid as the all-purpose bike, a name that fits the bike`s versatility and design. The All-Purpose Bike During the design process, the hybrid took many elements of other popular styles of bikes to create a bike that can work for non-sealed and sealed roads. They often have a larger gear range, better suspension, and bigger tires compared to road bikes, comfort bikes, and cruiser bikes. But while their tires feature a more pronounced tread than cruiser and road bikes, the tires and suspension really can`t compare to what you`ll find on a mountain bike. As one of the most versatile bikes on the market, the hybrid can go where other types of bikes cannot, but it`s not quite as versatile as some manufacturers claim. It does have its limitations. The addition of front suspension does allow the hybrid to go where some bikes can`t, but in reality, the hybrid is best suited for light off-road riding. Before you buy a hybrid bike for mountain bike riding, it`s important that you know that these bikes cannot perform exactly like a traditional mountain bike, despite how much some manufacturers push these bikes as part mountain bike, part road bike. However, with some upgrades, it is possible to take a hybrid for some off-road riding. But this can include upgrading the suspension fork and tires. In addition to other minor improvements.

There are many factors to consider when purchasing a mountain bike, and getting the right size is the most important. Mountain bikes come in a variety of sizes, and measuring them is relatively easy. You must first learn the bike parts, where to measure and how to translate this measurement. Instructions Mountain bikes are generally measured by the distance of the seat tube, which is the vertical part of the triangle the frame forms. The tube runs from the bottom of the seat post where it meets the top tube to the middle of the crank. The seat post is the short stem that holds the bike seat. The top tube is the horizontal bar that runs along the top of the bike, and the crank is the larger circular piece in the middle of the bike where the pedals are attached. Once you are familiar with the bike parts, use a tape measure to determine the distance of the seat tube. Record this distance in inches. This will give you a general frame size. Compare this measurement with the one listed for the mountain bike you are previewing. Different manufacturers can have different sizing systems, but generally they are rounded up to the nearest inch and sold in 2-inch increments. Know the top tube measurement. This is the distance from the bike post to the handlebars and determines your reach. Proper fit is important for breathing, back and neck comfort, and ease of reaching the gears and brakes. Different manufacturers have different standards on the top tube. For instance, according to Colorado Cyclist, "One manufacturer's 17-inch frame may give you a 22-inch top tube, while the next one's 17-inch gives you a 22.8-inch." Know how mountain bike sizes are labeled and sold. The most common mountain bike frames come in 15-inch, 17-inch and 19-inch sizes, and generally they are listed as small, medium, large or extra large. The best way to test a frame size is to go to a mountain bike shop and straddle a bike. You should have at least 2 inches of clearance from your crotch to the top tube, and you should easily be able to reach the ground with both feet and reach the handlebars with ease.

1. Use correct seat height. This is a common mistake of many novice cyclers. But correct seat height is key to uniform toning of the upper and lower leg. Your seat should sit high enough that it almost fully extends your leg with each pedal, but not so high that the leg is fully extend. There should remain a slight bend in your leg at the pedals lowest point. Overextending your leg when pedaling can strain the backside of the knee – the plantaris muscle. To get proper seat height: Loosen your seat pole adjustment and stand over your bike. With the pedal at its lowest point, put the ball of your foot on the pedal. Push off the pedal, extending your leg, but leave a slight bend at the knee Now raise the seat to meet your bottom and re-tighten the seat pole screw 2. Position ball of foot on pedal. If your desire is to shape your calves, then appropriate foot-placement is the way to do it. Aside from providing good balance, placing the balls of your feet on the pedals works each calf muscle, unlike placing the your mid-foot or heel on the pedal which only works your calves lateral head – the outer calf. Placing the balls of your feet on the pedals when cycling works all three main areas of the calf: the inner calf – the Gastrocnemius Medial Head the outer calf – the Gastrocnemius Lateral Head the internal mid-calf – the Soleus Ball placement also tones the quadriceps, the upper thigh muscle, as well as the hamstring. 3. Keep pedaling. The general idea of cycling for fitness is to keep your legs in motion. Coast occasionally but mostly on down hills. If you reach a hilly area, don`t get off the bike and walk. Shift gears to a lower setting. You`ll be amazed at how easy hills are to climb when using your gears efficiently. 4. Stay hydrated. Water is your single most important nutrient. When working out, water transports nutrients (energy) throughout the body. Water aides in the excretion of waste products from the cells. It suppresses the appetite; helps the body metabolize and break down fat deposits; prevents cramping; and keeps joints healthy. Synovial fluid, which lubricates the joints, is composed of water. 5. Eat a good meal soon after cycling. Research has shown that the enzyme, glycogen synthase, which turns food carbohydrates into glycogen for energy stores, is most active immediately after exercise. This means that if you ingest carbohydrates within thirty minutes to an hour after exercising, you greatly increase your energy reserves, as opposed to eating several hours after a workout. Make sure your post-cycling meal is rich in nutrients. A mere soda and chips won`t do. You`ve just burned countless vitamins and sweated out stockpiles of minerals, breaking down muscles during your bike ride. Now it`s time to pay the bill. Give your body what it needs to build those muscles back up stronger: a healthy meal. Take a vitamin supplement with the meal if necessary.

Cycling vs. running Running and cycling are classic hobbies and exercises that people enjoy around the world. They`re both forms of aerobic exercise that can be pursued outdoors, whether on city streets or nature trails. In general, running burns more calories than cycling. But it`s also higher impact and harder on muscles and joints. So, which is better for you? That depends on your goals and how you go about achieving them. 1. Cardiovascular health In terms of cardiovascular (cardio) health, both running and cycling are equally beneficial. Aerobic activities help strengthen your heart so that it can pump more oxygen in your body. Doing cardio exercise, such as running and biking, teaches your heart to pump even more efficiently the rest of the time. If you`re engaging in vigorous running or biking, you may need to limit your activities to no more than 60 minutes a day. According to an overview of multiple studiesTrusted Source, vigorous exercise more than 5 hours a week, or 60 minutes a day, can actually begin to have a negative effect on your cardiovascular health. 2. Calorie burn The number of calories you burn in either exercise depends on the intensity and length of time you do it. In general, running burns more calories than cycling because it uses more muscles. However, cycling is gentler on the body, and you may be able to do it longer or faster than you can run. You`ll also burn more calories if you`re running or cycling uphill for any portion of your exercise than you would if you were exercising on a flat surface. Your age, weight, gender, and other factors determine your own baseline of calorie burning. Talk with your doctor to learn how many calories you should burn while exercising to reach your personal health goals. 3. Building muscle Cycling can help you build muscle in your lower half. Running won`t lead to a lot of bulk, but it can help you develop stronger, toned muscles. Pushing pedals while biking is resistance training that builds leg muscles. The top half of your body is also involved, but those muscles aren`t nearly as engaged as the bottom half. Running uses all of the muscles at the same time and doesn`t engage them in a way that will build much bulk. However, your muscles and bones will get stronger from use and the impact of hitting the ground. 4. Toning muscle Running may be better for toning muscles since it works your whole body and burns more calories. You`ll need to add some weight training and potentially change your diet if you`re wanting noticeable results. The look of lean, toned muscles usually results from overall body fitness and low body fat. You cannot pick where your body gains or loses fat, but you can pick which muscles you build. One studyTrusted Source found that working out four to five times per week was effective at maintaining muscle tone among active, aging adults. The key with toning is to exercise for a long amount of time without reaching muscle fatigue. Running slower but for longer stretches may help you achieve a toned look. 5. Weight loss To lose weight, you need to find the correct balance of calories in (not too many or too few) to calories out (burned through exercise and regular bodily functions). You may be able to lose weight more quickly by running. But if you cycle for long amounts of time, the calorie loss can eventually meet and exceed that of running. The potential to lose weight by running or cycling depends on how you participate in the sport and how you combine it with healthy eating and other habits. While running does burn more calories on average, cycling is gentler on the joints, which might allow you to exercise longer and burn more calories overall. One small studyTrusted Source found evidence suggesting both cycling and running suppressed appetite in young men. These activities could be helpful if you`re trying to control cravings and eat more balanced meals. Talk with your doctor and a physical trainer if you have a specific weight-loss goal.

We've described a bicycle as a machine and, in scientific terms, that's exactly what it is: a device that can magnify force (making it easier to go uphill) or speed. It's also a machine in the sense that it converts energy from one form (whatever you had to eat) into another (the kinetic energy your body and bicycle have as they speed along). Now you've probably heard of a law of physics called the conservation of energy, which says that you can't create energy out of thin air or make it vanish without trace: all you can do is convert it from one from to another. So where does the energy you use in cycling actually go? It scientific terms, we say it goes into "doing work"- but what does that mean in practice? Cycling can sometimes feel like hard work, especially if you're going uphill. In the science of cycling, "hard work" means that you sometimes have to use quite a lot of force to pedal any distance. If you're going uphill, you need to work against the force of gravity. If you're going fast, you're working against the force of air resistance (drag) pushing against your body. Sometimes there are bumps in the road you have to ride over; that takes more force and uses energy too (bumps reduce your kinetic energy by reducing your speed). Bicycles work so well with the human body because they harness power from our large and very powerful leg muscles. Recumbent bicycles (ones you ride lying down) might look ultra-modern and a bit weird, but they date back at least 100 years. They're faster than conventional bicycles because their riders adopt a much more aerodynamic, tube-like posture that minimizes drag. Since the pedals are higher off the ground, the cranks can be longer, so you get more leverage, your muscles can make high power for longer, and do so more efficiently. Photo by Robin Hillyer-Miles courtesy of US Navy. But whether you're going uphill or downhill, fast or slow, on a smooth road or a bumpy one, there's another kind of work you always have to do simply to make your wheels go around. When a wheel rests on the ground, supporting a load such as a rider on a bike, the tire wrapped around it is squashed up in some places and bulging out in others. As you cycle along, different parts of the tire squash and bulge in turn and the rubber they're made from is pulled and pushed in all directions. Repeatedly squashing a tire in this way is a bit like kneading bread: it takes energy-and that energy is what we know as rolling resistance. The more load you put on the tire (the heavier you are or the more you're carrying), the higher the rolling resistance. For a racing bike traveling fast, about 80 percent of the work the cyclist does will go in overcoming air resistance, while the remainder will be used to battle rolling resistance; for a mountain biker going much more slowly over rough terrain, 80 percent of their energy goes in rolling resistance and only 20 percent is lost to drag. How much energy are we actually talking about here? In the Tour de France, according to a fascinating analysis by Training Peaks, top riders average about 300–400 watts of power, which is as much as 3–4 old-fashioned 100-watt lamps or about 15 percent of the power you'd need to drive an electric kettle. For comparison, you can generate about 10 watts with a hand-cranked electricity generator, though you can't use one of those for very long without getting tired. What does this tell us? It's much easier to generate large amounts of power for long periods of time by using your big leg muscles than by using your hands and arms. That's why bikes are so clever: they make good use of the most powerful muscles in our body.